We assembled a focus group of our nearest and dearest and hired an Escalade to be at our service – with Google Maps and a cooler full of adult beverages, we were ready for a night of pizza tasting. We skillfully developed a scientific scoring system by which all pizzas would be graded: crust, balance, and overall taste. At the end of the night there would be a king.
Our SUV disappeared into the stormy night – pizza pirates on a search for the golden crust. First stop: the famed Grimaldi’s under the Brooklyn Bridge. Grimaldi’s is world famous for using a coal oven and not serving “slices”. In the early 1900’s all bakeries used coal fired ovens; they started to die off as they were outlawed in many boroughs and the new school of pizza makers moved forward with the ease and efficiency of gas. The coal is the secret to the Grimaldi’s success. When we arrived, people were waiting in line, in the rain. The wait is definitely worth it. The crust was a unique combination of smokiness and saltiness. We smuggled the pie into our chariot, ate in silence, and sped off to the next quest: the Sicilian style pizza of L&B Spumoni Gardens.
On the eastern edge of Brooklyn lies L&B Spumoni Gardens, a quaint, open-aired garden area offering pizza, Italian ice and an indoor restaurant. It’s an Italian’s paradise. But we are here on a mission - to taste the famous Sicilian pie. You can order by the slice, half-square (12 slices), or full-square (24 slices). We picked up a half-square and sat outside under the giant red awning; joining a diverse and enthusiastic collection of pizza lovers. The L&B Sicilian pie was everything you would expect: thick square slices that are crispier on the edge pieces - no fighting over the end pieces, please. L&B layers the cheese first and then tops it off with a tangy and sweet red sauce that is every bit as unique as the location and surroundings. On a night filled with classic margherita styled pizzas, this Sicilian classic really stood out; showing all the versatility that pizza can have – the perspectives that the creators lend, and the intangible taste of the environment in which it was created – the terrior (so to speak) of the pizza. As the conversation gets philosophical, and our stomachs expand, we disappear once again into the night to find another legendary pizzeria, the critic’s darling: DiFara’s.
In the car, the conversation turns to our experience so far. Is pizza simply about the end result or is it about the journey on the way to the table? Is Grimaldi’s as good without the line, the “no slices” warning signs, and being under the Brooklyn Bridge? Can L&B Spumoni’s pizza be as good if you took away the red awning, the history, the location? After all, pizza is a form of culinary art in which most participants are using the same few general ingredients so the nuances and the tradition are what separate the great pizza makers from the street pizza you see on every NYC corner. Take 100 years of experience, selectively sourced ingredients (not just tomatoes, but good tomatoes, locally made cheese, fresh herbs, etc), an old oven, and the rustic vibe of knowing that the walls have stories that the generations have forgotten.
This leads us to DiFara’s. In the heart of Brooklyn in a well appointed, diverse neighborhood under the clamoring F-Train, you will find the one-man show led by Dom DeMarco. Legend has it he makes every pizza himself - meticulously rolling out the dough and delicately balancing the flavors of the pie. An old school cash register and a telephone that rings off the hook (but not answered) are the only signs of that this is a business or even the 21st century. The walls are adorned with old pictures, paintings, and the scent of pizza making mastery. Out comes the pie and Dom quickly finishes it off with a generous scissor cut of fresh basil and the finale of shaved parmesan cheese. His flour covered arms stop. His work is done. Off to the next pie. There is something about the place and this pizza that really stand above the rest. The crust is crunchy, the cheese is rich, and the sauce just right; the balance is perfect. If your idea of pizza as a product is something that comes in a box in 30 minutes or less for $9.99, this is not your place. If you want to have great pizza that represents the true Italian Neapolitan tradition of pizza, this is the eight wonder of your world. On this one rainy night in August, DiFara’s changed our lives.
As the final piece of the pizza puzzle, we head off to what we call the “new school” pizza joint that combines great pizza with a modern bar and restaurant atmosphere. Tucked on the edge of Park Slope where 6th Ave meets Flatbush, you will find the bright and inviting lights of Franny’s. Both highly rated and rather hip, Franny’s was the perfect place to end our journey. We kicked back with some wine and sampled their classic 12 inch pizzas born of the brick oven centerpiece in their exposed kitchen. You can dismiss the new school based on atmosphere the same way you can compare digital music to vinyl. It’s all so shiny, fancy, and … well, young. What could they know about pizza? As it turns out, they know a lot. Just as the "terrior" of DiFara’s adds to the pizza, the new experience at Franny’s adds just as much. Order a glass of wine, listen to some music, try a classic margherita pie or try the white clam pizza. Franny’s delivers a pie that combines a modern freshness with a great brick oven style crust. The margherita was crispy on the ends and softer in the middle with a great balance. Franny’s fully deserves its great reputation for pizza; it’s also a great place to hang out with friends. Franny’s is officially on the TSF “approved” list as it’s a great place for families to go whether it be with while pregnant (lots of non-cured meat choices), with your baby, toddlers, or just your partner.
Fulfilled and filled, the TSF crew ended its journey and tabulated the data. This was a best-of-the-best tour. The scoring was our attempt to objectively measure our experience, but instead we discovered the variation of experiences and perspectives on essentially the same ‘thing’. The bottom line – there is no measurement, only craft and hunger.
The results of the grading:
Difara, 9.8 (winner of all categories crust, balance, and overall taste)
L&B, 8.8
Franny's, 8.6
Grimaldi's, 8.4
Lucali, on vacation
Created with Admarket's flickrSLiDR.
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